Featured Products Everglow | PDF $12.00 Add to cart Misty Mountains | PDF $12.00 Add to cart Harvest Star | PDF $12.00 Add to cart Latest from the blog Harvest Star Quilt CoatCan’t stop, won’t stop with ALLLLL the Patchwork Chore Coat versions! This time it is a focal back, hand-quilted, solid beauty! This Harvest Star quilt coat is so soft thanks to hand-quilting and boasts a stunning back! Quick Details: PATTERN: Patchwork Chore Coat – a coat pattern for quilted fabrics (coming soon!) in size Small QUILT BLOCK: Harvest Star quilt – I made one block for the back of the coat, keeping the rest of the coat more restrained, adding half square triangles to the sleeves and front pockets for extra detail FABRICS: All Riley Blake Designs: Outer coat is Confetti Cottons in Hunter, Riley Burgundy, Autumn and Honey. Lining is Chambray Indigo, and inner binding is Liberty Fabrics Winter Flower Show – Malvern Meadow C THREAD: Aurifil – 12 weight in #5007 for hand-quilting, 50 weight in #2905 for machine piecing the block and coat assembly All the Info: Harvest Star Quilt Coat I started by creating one Harvest Star block, cutting out the pieces using my Accuquilt. That made the whole process so much faster! I then added borders around the block until it was large enough to fit my coat back pattern piece. I repeated the process for the coat fronts (solid), collar (solid), sleeves (HST details), and pockets (HST details). I sandwiched each panel individually to batting and backing and hand quilted the whole thing using my favorite Aurifil thread. For a full hand-quilting tutorial, click here. I love the fact that the front is pretty basic, it will match a lot of my outfits! I still need to add buttons to this version, but I couldn’t help getting a few pictures while we were at my parents house for Easter. The fact that the Harvest Star quilt block takes up the whole back is by far my favorite thing. I washed the pieces before I assembled them into a coat, that hand-quilting crinkle is just the best! The “guts” of the coat, looking lovely! I might just wear this coat chambray side out, its so pretty with the floral binding detail! I found this liberty floral in my stash and I couldn’t believe how well it matched the colors of the coat. You’d think I had started with the floral and picked the outer colors to match, but nope! This chambray is really lightweight and soft, making it an ideal coat lining. I asked the women in my family to help pose for a Patchwork Chore Coat family picture ;). We’ve got the hooded version on the far left, this hand quilted version made with panels, the reversible version, and finally the one I made starting with a quilt. Click on the links for more details on each one! You might also like: Quilt Coat Pattern Round-Up Coming Soon… Patchwork Chore Coat Pattern Dog Quilt Coat! Quilted Coat | A Finished Project... Read more...Modern Crossing Quilt CoatWhen I decided to create the Patchwork Chore Coat, I knew that I wanted to be able to make the coat reversible. A reversible coat opens up so many possibilities! Two looks in one! Once I figured out a good binding technique, I needed to decide what I wanted my reversible coat to look like. For the outside of my coat, I chose the Modern Crossing Quilt pattern and decided to sew it up in Essex Linen. I love how muted it looks. It has a soft, worn vintage feel to it that I love. Linen has a really great weight and softness so I knew for a coat it would end up looking like something I pulled out of my closet that had been passed down through the years. Modern Crossing comes with two sizes – baby and throw, and each size has different size blocks. I chose to make the throw size Modern Crossing quilt. I knew that I wanted the coat to have a randomized look to it, and the throw size would achieve that – someone looking at it right away might not recognize it as a Modern Crossing quilt, instead it would have an appealing scrappy/pulled together effect. For the reversible side, I decided to make a ton of scrappy stars. My vision was a coat that fit into the 1970’s. I just couldn’t get that idea out of my head. I pulled a ton fo fabrics from my stash. Some actual vintage fabrics, some solids, and some old Cotton & Steel prints. There’s some really great Cotton & Steel prints by Kim Kight that have the perfect 1970’s vintage feel. They fit in so well with the actual vintage prints! Once I had all the fabrics, I used my Accuquilt and the 8″ Qube to cut out the pieces I needed for my stars. From each fabric I cut out the star fabric and the background fabric, then I mixed them up within the quilt top. I love using my Accuquilt, especially for flying geese (like the ones in the stars below) because they require no trimming! It makes cutting a ton of different fabrics for a scrappy quilt fast and fun. All my blocks are 8″ finished sawtooth stars. I ended up using over 40 different fabrics! And the finished coat! I love love love how it turned out! Although my measurements fall into the Small size of the Patchwork Chore Coat, I decided to make a Medium size in this jacket because I wanted to have a slightly oversized fit. I’m glad I went oversized, this coat looks so good with skinny jeans and boots! I had so much fun taking pictures in my new coat, and it quickly became my favorite Patchwork Chore Coat version I’ve made so far. When you get tired of wearing it one way? Flip it out and wear it the other side! One coat – two looks! How much fun is that? For my inner binding I used a light colored chambray. For me it fit with the 1970’s vision I was trying to achieve. I’m now brainstorming other fun reversible options I could do for my next coat! If you want to make your own, I offer a 6-week Quilt Coat Course where I walk you through making a reversible Patchwork Chore Coat! Find all the information about the course here. What would your reversible coat look like? You might also like: Quilt Coat Pattern Round-Up Toddler Quilt Coat Quilt Sweater | Woven Hearts Coming Soon… Patchwork Chore Coat Pattern... Read more...Cirrus Quilt CoatI rarely sew anyone else’s quilt patterns anymore, since pattern samples keep me so busy! However, when my friend Emily from Homemade Emily Jane shared with me her latest quilt pattern, I told her I had to make it ASAP. Her Cirrus quilt pattern is lovely, modern, and customizable! I chose to keep my gingham flying geese neutral and use a green background. From the moment I picked out these fabrics I knew I would be turning the quilt into a Patchwork Chore Coat. This Cirrus quilt coat is so modern and fun! I made the lap size, which finishes at 51″ square. That’s a bit small for the Patchwork Chore Coat, so I had to do some fancy finagling to make it work. I wasn’t able to fussy cut or place my pattern pieces where I wanted, but actually, I think the way it turned out was even better than I could have hoped. That’s the beauty of quilt coats – they always turn out amazing! I ended up quilting a separate piece for the collar since I couldn’t fit it on the quilt I had made. I also had to make the coat length 3/4″ smaller than stated in the pattern. Even with all these slight modifications, the Cirrus quilt coat came out so great! (For reference, I’m 5′ 4″) This was my first version that I made the Medium size. My first two Patchwork Chore Coats were Small. Although the small fits great, I fell in love with the oversized, cozy feel of this medium! I was planning on selling this coat, but now I’m wavering! Ha! The lining is a fun floral from PBS Fabrics. I love the contrast of the restrained outer coat and the pop of fun on the inside! Plus, all the seams on the inside are finished, so you could reverse it and wear the fun floral on the outside! The Cirrus quilt is available now from Homemade Emily Jane, and has so many possibilities! Its a beautiful pattern! The Patchwork Chore Coat pattern is coming soon from me! Click here for more information about the coat pattern. You might also like: Harvest Star Quilt Coat Quilt Coat Pattern Round-Up Coming Soon… Patchwork Chore Coat Pattern Dog Quilt Coat!... Read more...Coming Soon… Patchwork Chore Coat PatternI started making quilted coats last fall and quickly fell in love with the process. There’s something magical about taking a cozy quilt and transforming it into an even cozier coat! I started a search for the perfect quilt coat, but came up disappointed. Coat 1 had a hood but no way to close it up, which is a must in Wisconsin. Coat 2 had a closure method but no hood or collar. Coat 3 was way too big. And so the list went on. Finally, I figured out the solution was to draft my OWN quilted coat pattern and share it with all of you! Introducing the Patchwork Chore Coat by Patchwork & Poodles! The Patchwork Chore Coat was specifically designed for quilted fabric. It is the perfect pattern for turning your favorite vintage quilt (or new quilt!) into a coat! The Patchwork Chore Coat has a relaxed, but not oversized fit. If you prefer an oversized coat, go up one size. Special considerations have been taken to finishing the seams, especially the bulky underarm seams. Pattern details out different seam finishing methods, including a binding option that allows the coat to be reversible. YES! Reversible! View A features a classic chore coat collar. View B features a three-piece hood. Both views have one length and one closure method – buttons. However, the pattern has information on how to lengthen and shorten the coat to allow for more variations. I’ve made a longer version already, and instead of buttons I used a zipper closure. I’m working on a detailed blog post for this hack so with the pattern and blog post, you’ll be able to make a zippered version too. Patchwork Chore Coat View A: Patchwork Chore Coat View B: Here’s how the hood looks on the coat. This is the coat I’ll be writing a blog post about so if you’re looking for a longer style, the Patchwork Chore Coat can definitely accommodate! Did I mention the course? In my quilt coat frenzy I realized a lot of other quilters wanted to make coats but didn’t know where to begin. So I developed a detailed course for the Patchwork Chore Coat! The Quilt Coat Course is a 6 week long virtual course. You’ll have access to the content after the course is over so you can work at your own pace. We’ll go through everything you need to know from start to finish, including a bonus module at the end on how to use up your quilt scraps. The Quilt Coat Course comes with 6 weeks of pre-recorded videos, additional handouts, a private Facebook group to share progress, and weekly live q&a sessions with me. The cost of the pattern is included in the cost of the course. When is this launching? Soon! Really soon! Get on the waitlist to be notified of course launch and coat pattern release! Sign up here. FAQ: What is included in the course?You’ll get the pattern, 6 weeks of pre-recorded videos walking you through every step from choosing a quilt to final touches, handouts with additional information, a private Facebook group to share progress with others, and weekly live q&a sessions with me. What do I need to take the course?A sewing machine in good working order with a walking foot, thread, scissors, a printer to print the pattern, and a quilt! What is the difference between the course and the pattern?The pattern is just the pattern – it specifies using pre-quilted fabric but doesn’t go into more detail than that on fabric selection. The pattern comes with all the pattern pieces and instructions to construct the coat and assumes you have basic knowledge of garment construction. The course dives into much greater detail, including what kind of batting to use if you’re making your own quilt, should you make an entire quilt or panels, what to look for if buying a vintage quilt, and more. If you have questions about making a quilt coat, the course is the way you want to go because all those questions will be answered, and you’ll have the chance to ask any additional questions during the weekly live q&a sessions. I’m new to sewing. Can I do this?YES! If you’ve made a face mask during this pandemic, you can make a quilt coat. However, I highly recommend you take the course, because I’ll be able to walk you through step-by-step. I’ve seen coat sew-alongs on Instagram. How is this course different?We’ll all be using the same pattern, and making it together. This allows you to ask more detailed questions and get help at any point. Plus, the course has modules on how to make/prepare your quilt to turn it into a quilt coat, including what type of batting to use, what considerations to take if hand-quilting, how to construct your quilt in the most efficient way for least fabric waste, etc. There’s also a module all about sourcing and prepping vintage quilts if that’s the way you want to go. You’ll get so much more detailed information in this course than you would in a sew-along. I’m interested in the pattern but don’t want to take the course. Will the pattern be available to purchase separately?Yes! It will launch right after the course registration closes. Sign up here to be notified about all quilt coat and course updates. I’m not a quilter. What can I use for this coat instead?The pattern has some basic information about sourcing and using vintage quilts or pre-quilted fabric. The course goes into greater detail on this, including how to prep a vintage quilt and how to alter a quilt. What sizes are included in the pattern?Women’s sizes XXS-3XL. See size chart below for more descriptive measurements. What format will the pattern come in?Currently a printable PDF format with options for at-home printing, US Copyshop, and A0. I’m a quilter but I’ve never made a garment. Can I do this?YES! This is the perfect beginner garment because the fabrics aren’t shifty, there’s very few complex techniques or stressful spots, and I’ve written the pattern to be as straightforward as possible. I really hope you’ll join me for this course and share with me your quilt coat makes!! I’m so excited about this pattern and I can’t believe it is almost ready! You might also like: Quilt Coat Pattern Round-Up Dog Quilt Coat! Quilted Coat | A Finished Project... Read more...Double Gauze Baby Quilt Tutorial!Today I have a fun and FREE tutorial for you to make this super easy double gauze baby quilt! Double gauze is the perfect fabric for babies because it is breathable, soft, and made of cotton! I was lucky enough to try PBS Fabrics’s new organic double gauze line and it is AMAZING! You can find these fabrics from the following retailers: Harts FabricsUrban SewcietyStonemountain and DaughterSewcial DistanceStitches SeattleModern DomesticBolt Neighborhood Fabric Boutique. For the double gauze baby quilt, you’ll need: 1.25 yards each of (2) double gauze printsBatting, 50″ squareHand tying supplies: thread (I used Aurifil 12 weight but you can use yard, ribbon, embroidery floss, etc.), needle, thimbleSewing machine with a walking footScissorsRuler How to: 1. Cut the selvege edge off one side of your first fabric. Then fold the fabric in half on the diagonal to form a triangle, or half a square. Cut the overhang off to create a square piece of fabric. Repeat with your second print. 2. Place one fabric right side up on top of your batting. 3. Place your second fabric right sides together on top of the first fabric. Add some pins to keep the layers together. 4. Stitch around the perimeter of your fabric with a 1/4″ seam allowance. Leave an 8″ hole to be able to turn the quilt right side out later on. 5. Trim your batting square with the fabrics, and snip your corners for sharper points, making sure not to trim into your seam. 6. Turn your quilt right side out, and press the edges flat, taking extra care with the opening and adding pins if needed. 7. Topstitch all the way around your quilt with an 1/8″ seam allowance, closing the opening shut as you go. 8. Add yarn ties or machine tack your quilt to secure all the layers together. Check your batting package to see how far away you can make the ties. I chose to tie my quilt every 5″ with my Aurifil 12 weight thread doubled. 9. That’s it! Wash and enjoy this extra snuggly double gauze baby quilt! This project is a great one for beginner sewists, or for a quick and thoughtful baby shower gift! Watch the video! You might also like: Modern Reusable Tote Bags Sashiko Zipper Pouch | A Tutorial Dog Collar in 4 Sizes | A Tutorial Tree Garland Table Runner | Free Tutorial... Read more...Tips for Better Machine Binding QuiltsMachine binding your quilt can be as beautiful as it is rewarding! When I’m not big stitch hand binding, I’m machine binding my quilts for a quick finish. Here’s some great tips for stress-free machine binding: 1. Zig-Zag your quilt sandwich: After trimming your quilt square, even if you’ve performed a Victory Lap, go ahead and zig-zag all the way around your quilt sandwich with a wide zig-zag. This helps keep all those edges together, which makes for a smoother binding application. You won’t have the layers folding over every which way between your binding. 2. Use a walking foot: Apply your binding with a walking foot to help it feed evenly across the quilt. It also helps to press your binding strips in half lengthwise prior to applying. This ensures that you won’t get any weird puckers in your binding itself. I like to use 2.5″ binding strips in my binding to give myself plenty of room when sewing the binding to the quilt. 3. Getting a crisp mitered corner: For a really crisp mitered corner, stop stitching 1/4″ away from the end of the quilt, backstitch, and cut your thread. This allows you to position the diagonal fold for the mitered corner accurately. Watch the video below to see this in action. 4. Frustration-free final binding join: Overlap your two binding edges together by the width of your binding strip. For example, if I’m using 2.5″ binding strips, overlap them by 2.5″. Then use those two ends to sew the final 45 degree seam. See this in action in the video below. 5. Press, press, press! I press my binding in half lengthwise prior to sewing it to the front of my quilt. Then, I press the binding flat with the quilt top, and press it again to the back of the quilt and secure it with binder clips. You can buy specialty quilting clips for this purpose, but I prefer binder clips from my local office supply store. They’re inexpensive, metal, and sturdy! Plus, they stay put! 6. Stitch your binding on the back of the quilt: For a machine-bound quilt that looks as precise on the front as it does on the back of the quilt, first apply the binding to the front of the quilt. Press it to the back, and then stitch the binding in place from the back of the quilt. If you try to stitch in the ditch on the front of the quilt, not only is this extremely difficult (you might accidentally veer out of the ditch), but it will also look uneven on the back of the quilt. By using 2.5″ binding strips and the tips above, you’re able to stitch the binding on the back of the quilt, staying about 1/8″ away from the edge of the binding and get a really even binding application. It also looks really even and beautiful on the front of the quilt! It won’t be in the ditch, it will be near the binding edge but still on the quilt itself. This looks especially good for any straight line quilting, as it blends in with the quilting. Ready to see all the machine binding tips in action? Watch the video! Loved these Machine Binding tips? Find more quilting tips & tricks on my YouTube channel! More on Binding: Matching stripes on bindingFussy cut binding motifBig stitch hand bindingBig stitch hand binding variations You might also like: No related posts.... Read more...Everglow Quilt | A PatternPatchwork and Poodle’s 12th pattern is here! Meet Everglow! These big blocks come together quickly thanks to strip piecing. I love nothing more than a pattern that is satisfying to assemble and this Everglow quilt hits that perfectly. Find Everglow quilt in the shop: Quilt Coat Course $78.95 Read more Everglow | PAPER $12.00 Add to cart Everglow | Set of 5 $30.00 Add to cart Everglow | PDF $12.00 Add to cart Woven Hearts | PDF $12.00 Add to cart Woven Hearts | Set of 5 $30.00 Add to cart Everglow uses half yard cuts of fabric which you mix and match across your blocks. I’ve had testers use fat quarters too – you’ll need twice as many fat quarters as you do half yards if you’re going that route. For my cover Everglow quilt, I used Ruby Star Society Speckled fabrics. I love that these fabrics are almost solids but they add a really beautiful dynamic to your quilt. They paired so well with the look and feel of Everglow! BerryCitronFestivePeachPineSoft AquaTealTurquoiseWine Time Background is Confetti, and binding in Pine. My cover quilt is the lap size, which is a really nice 54″ square quilt. Because this quilt has many seams, I performed a victory lap once the quilt top was completed. The Everglow quilt pattern comes with 7 sizes: Pillow – 18” x 18”Baby – 36” x 36”Lap – 54” x 54”Small Throw – 54” x 72”Large Throw – 72” x 72”Twin – 72” x 90”Bed – 90” x 90” Wouldn’t it make an awesome bed quilt?! For my backing, I used a print from the Adorn fabric collection by Ruby Star Society. Funny enough, I picked the fabrics for the top before I ever saw the backing fabric, and boy were they perfect for each other! I knew that I wanted to pattern match my backing so that I wouldn’t cut any of the design off! This is a super easy thing to do! I have a blog post with video all about how to pattern match your quilt backing fabric. Everglow is labeled as an Intermediate pattern. If you’re comfortable with an accurate seam allowance, you’ll do just fine making Everglow! If you want to test your seam allowance prior to starting this or any other quilt, click here for my how-to video. All my patterns come with step-by-step color diagrams to help you through any spots! My goal is always to design patterns that you can love making and love the outcome. Find Everglow in the shop: Quilt Coat Course $78.95 Read more Everglow | PAPER $12.00 Add to cart Everglow | Set of 5 $30.00 Add to cart Everglow | PDF $12.00 Add to cart Woven Hearts | PDF $12.00 Add to cart Woven Hearts | Set of 5 $30.00 Add to cart You might also like: No related posts.... Read more...Victory Lap! A quilt top celebratory stitch!You’ve stitched that final row on a quilt top together! Time to celebrate with a victory lap! A victory lap in quilting is when you stitch all the way around the perimeter of your quilt top. This keeps all of your seams from unraveling during the basting and quilting process. A victory lap is especially helpful for quilt tops with a lot of seams, since those are more likely to pull on each other and cause unraveling at the edges. A victory lap is also a good idea anytime you’re sending your quilt out to a longarmer. You’re ensuring everything is as good as it can be to send to your longarmer so they don’t have any issues. To perform one, stitch about 1/8″ away from the edge of your quilt top with a longer seam length (I like to use about 3.0). You’re essentially basting the edges of your quilt to prevent any unraveling. You want to keep your line of stitching about 1/8″ away from the edge of the quilt top so that your stitches will be hidden by the binding later on. You can also perform a victory lap once you’re done quilting your quilt. I like to do one before I trim the excess batting and backing off my quilt top. This helps keep all of my edges flat and makes stitching on binding a breeze. The same principle for a victory lap at this stage in quilting applies as above – make sure your line of stitching is about 1/8″ away from the edge of your quilt. This is so that when you stitch on the binding, your stitches will be hidden from your finished quilt. This is such an easy way to keep from having headaches and frustrations later on. It takes very little time to zip your sewing machine around your quilt top or quilt, and it does a great job of keeping everything in its place. You’ve worked so hard on this quilt, this is such a great way to make sure your efforts turn out just the way you want them to! Want to see this in action? Watch the video below! Love learning quilting tips? Subscribe to my YouTube channel for more! Watch the Victory Lap video: Love this quilt? Find Everglow in my shop! Quilt Coat Course $78.95 Read more Everglow | PAPER $12.00 Add to cart Everglow | Set of 5 $30.00 Add to cart Everglow | PDF $12.00 Add to cart Woven Hearts | PDF $12.00 Add to cart Woven Hearts | Set of 5 $30.00 Add to cart You might also like: No related posts.... Read more...Dog Bed DIY & Floor PillowIf this Bear Path quilt looks familiar, that’s because it is! I used this quilt in my Hand Quilting 101 video! Once I had finished quilting it, I debated what I should turn it into. Ultimately, I decided a floor pillow/dog bed was the perfect use for this Bear Path quilt! Turns out, a dog bed DIY was the perfect weekend project! I made the Wall Hanging size of the Bear Path quilt, which finishes at 26″ square. The first step was sourcing a pillow insert for this quilt. I finally sourced an “oversize Euro” pillow at Kohl’s that measured 27″ square. I’ve learned over the years that you actually want your pillow insert to be larger than your pillow cover for a really nice, full look. To make this Dog Bed DIY, I followed my instructions on the Zippered Pillows Tutorial in 3 Sizes blog post to prep my pillow front and back and add in the zipper. I used a 24″ zipper for this floor pillow. I also used 1/4″ seams instead of the 1/2″ seams stated in the original tutorial. This is because Bear Path has HSTs on the corners and I didn’t want to lose those nice points! The tutorial walks you through how to add in a zipper, and as you can tell, it is adaptable to any size pillow! I like to quilt both the front and the back of my pillows. It makes them extra cozy! For the back I pieced together leftover scraps and chose a large diagonal grid quilting pattern. I varied the thread colors, using the same threads on fabrics as I did in the front. My favorite part is the intersections of fabrics/thread and how they seamlessly change from one to the other! It is so nice to love the back of your item as much as the front! I call this a floor pillow AND a dog bed because it really can be used for both! Riley is 15lbs and about 15″ tall at the shoulder (he’s very leggy) and he fit nicely on top of this pillow. If you were making a dog bed for a larger dog, I would first determine what you wanted the finished size to be. Then, search out a pattern that is similar in size to what you’re looking for. Baby and Crib sized quilts would be the perfect size for a larger dog! You can stuff your dog bed with whatever you wish – a pillow (like I did), multiple pillows sewn together or laid next to each other for a larger dog bed, batting and fabric scraps, or bean bag filling. If using bean bag filling, first make a pillowcase and stuff that with the bean bag pellets, then put it in your throw cover. You don’t want the zipper on the throw cover to accidentally come undone and have bean bag pellets all over your house. Not only is it a mess to clean up, but they can be harmful for the animals and small humans in your home. One thing that I have noticed with fabric scraps is that they are heavy! They lend to a very dense filling for pillows, poufs, and dog beds. Consider mixing fabric scraps with polyester fluff or adding a layer of foam before adding the scraps to add that desired squishiness factor. Riley made himself quite at home on this dog bed! One more thing to note, is that if I was making this for a larger dog, I would probably opt for machine quilting. Those dog nails can get in between the hand quilting and pull/rip threads! Riley isn’t destructive (he’s a very gentle dog) so I felt safe going with hand quilting on this. Supplies used for this dog bed DIY: Riley Blake Designs Confetti CottonsAurifil threadFind all my favorite hand quilting supplies including hera markers, chalk pencils, milliner’s needles, and more in my Amazon storefront Buy Bear Path Quilt Pattern: Quilt Coat Course $78.95 Read more Everglow | PAPER $12.00 Add to cart Everglow | Set of 5 $30.00 Add to cart Everglow | PDF $12.00 Add to cart Woven Hearts | PDF $12.00 Add to cart Woven Hearts | Set of 5 $30.00 Add to cart You might also like: Zippered Throw Pillows in 3 Sizes| A Tutorial Holiday Throw Pillows | A Finished Project Woven Hearts Pillow Rollakan Bear Path Quilt | A Finished Project... Read more...A Quilting Chat (with my mom!)I asked my mom to sit down with me and get on camera to chat about quilting! I made my first quilt when I was 12 in 4-H during a spring break day camp (yup, I was THAT cool, guys!). I made three quilts that year and I really liked them, but I didn’t see how to use quilting and continue with it. At the time, there wasn’t a ton of “cool” fabric for tweens/teens and I got much more interesting in sewing my own clothes. However, when I picked quilting back up in 2016, I instantly fell back in love with the process. Modern fabrics were now available too, which were mind-blowing for me. I saw modern quilt patterns and knew this is what I wanted to do. And, I convinced my mom to learn to quilt too! I had her over to make a quilt together, and after that first quilt, she fell in love with it too! While most people were taught how to quilt by their moms, I taught my mom how to quilt. Isn’t that fun? Find out more about our conversation by watching the video below! Watch our quilting chat! You might also like: No related posts.... Read more... Follow us on Instagram Loving these quilt coats and so excited you are to Only a few hours left to register! Quilt Coat Cour My friend @homemadeemilyjane released her Cirrus q Make a coat with me! 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