Featured Products Zippy | PDF Sale Product on sale $12.00 $9.00 Add to cart Inkling | PDF Sale Product on sale $12.00 $9.00 Add to cart Harvest Star | PDF Sale Product on sale $12.00 $9.00 Add to cart Latest from the blog Gifts for Fellow Quilters: Make them a project kit!Do you know what is my absolute favorite thing to receive from a fellow quilter? Their scraps! Why? Because there’s treasures in there I would have never dreamed of finding on my own! So put your scrap bin to good use and make a project kit (or three!) for your quilting best friends this Christmas. As quilters, we all know we love to make things. Curate a project kit to make a zipper pouch, potholder, or set of coasters and it becomes the gift that just keeps on giving! I’ve put together 3 different project kits you can make and gift to your friends. Simply cut the required fabrics, add any additional hardware needed, and print the free printable card so the recipient knows where to go for the tutorial. Tie it all up with a pretty bow and voila! Not only will this be a gift any sewist will be delighted to receive, but it also helps clean out your scrap bin just a little bit. Happy gifting! 1. Scrappy Zipper Pouch Kit What you need: (40) 2.5″ squares (1) 9″ zipper(2) 9.5″ x 11.5″ batting pieces(2) 8.5″ x 10.5″ fabric pieces for the lining(1) 2″ square fabric piece (zipper tab)(1) 3″ length of 1″ twill tape (optional)Printable card with instructions Package all the supplies up along with the printed card and gift! Want to make one too? Get the free tutorial here! 2. Folded Star Potholder Kit What you need: (1) 7.25″ circle of fabric cut from muslin or another scrap (used as star foundation and will not be seen)(1) 8″ square backing fabric(4) 4″ squares for center of star(8) 5″ squares for middle of star(8) 5″ squares for outside of star(1) 8″ square of insulbrite (thermal batting)(1) 8″ square of cotton batting1 yard of bias binding (make sure this is 100% cotton bias binding. A lot of the ones on the market now are a poly/cotton blend which will melt with heat! If you don’t want to make your own, look on Etsy for some really cute options from small businesses)Printable card with instructions Package all the supplies up along with the printed card and gift! Want to make one too? Get the free tutorial here! 3. Improv Coasters Kit What you need: At least 15 scrap pieces, each measuring 2″ x 12″ or bigger(4) 5″ squares of batting(4) 5″ squares of fabric for backingsPrintable card with instructions Package all the supplies up along with the printed card and gift! Want to make one too? Get the free tutorial over at Homemade Emily Jane! You might also like: No related posts.... Read more...Folded Star Potholder | A TutorialFolded Star, Origami Star, Amish Star, Somerset Star. There are many names for these fun folded star blocks. One thing we can all agree upon: they’re cute and make great gifts! So, let’s make a Folded Star Potholder together! A note before we begin: There are several ways to construct these folded star blocks. I’m going to show you the way that I learned, which was by finishing the vintage blocks in the photo below. A lady at our guild brought in her mother’s fabric stash after her mom had passed away and encouraged us to take what we wanted. I found unfinished folded star blocks in the pile and loved them immediately. Although this block has been around for a long time, you’ll notice that by updating our fabric choices, it becomes a great kitchen accessory for the modern home. Vintage Folded Star blocks I finished and turned into trivets A modern folded star potholder Prefer video? Watch the tutorial instead! What you need: (1) 7.25″ circle of fabric cut from muslin or another scrap (used as star foundation and will not be seen, see step 1 for cutting out your circle)(1) 8″ square backing fabric(4) 4″ squares for center of star(8) 5″ squares for middle of star(8) 5″ squares for outside of star(1) 8″ square of insulbrite (thermal batting)(1) 8″ square of cotton batting1 yard of bias binding The How To: Find a circular object between 7-7.5″ in diameter to use as your template, and trace out a circle of muslin or scrap fabric. This is our foundation fabric and will not be seen in the final project. Cut out your circle. 2. Fold your circle in half and press. Fold in half again to create quarters and press. These lines will be your foundation when building your folded star. Set aside. 3. Prep all the star points: fold a 4″ square in half away from you and press. Fold up the two corners closest to you towards the center to create a triangle. All of the raw edges of the fabric should all be on the long end of the triangle. Press. Repeat with all remaining 4″ and 5″ squares. 4. Start with the 4″ squares for the center of the star. Using the lines your pressed into your muslin scrap as your guide, line up all four triangles, points towards the center and pin in place. 5. Sew all the way around the triangles with a scant 1/4″ seam allowance. 6. Line up the second layer of your star, first lining up four triangles of color 2 so they are in a direct line above the color 1 triangles. You’re aiming for 0.5-0.75″ away from the center point. Make sure that they are all the same distance from the center. Pin in place, then stitch down 1/4″ away. 7. Add the remaining (4) color 2 triangles, making sure they are the same distance from the center as the others. With these four, the point of the triangle should match up with the seam between two triangles of color 1. Pin in place, and then stitch down. 8. Repeat steps 6-7 for the color 3 triangles. With these, however, I find it easier to stitch them down at the machine with the muslin circle facing up. Aim for 1/8″ seam allowance away from the edge of the muslin. 9. Trim Away the excess fabric that surpasses the edge of the muslin, then zig-zag all the way around with a wide zig zag to secure all the layers together. 10. Time to tack down the points of the star. You can choose to do this with your machine or by hand. If sewing with the machine, layer your insulbrite, batting, and backing and quilt through all of the layers with your walking foot. To tack by hand, start with bringing your needle up to the front center of the star, catch the edge of one of the center triangles, and bring your needle back down through the center to create a tacking stitch. 11. Repeat this for all of the center points, then continue towards the outer star, securing all of the color 2 and color 3 points as well. When completed, the back of your muslin should show a spiral motion of stitches. 12. Sandwich your potholder: start with the backing, right side down. Then add your batting, your insulbrite, and finally, your folded star. This will be a thick quilt sandwich! Stitch all the way around the star, catching all of the layers, with about an 1/8″ seam allowance. Use your walking foot and go slowly. 13. Trim all the way around your folded star, then, with the back of the potholder on top, zig-zag all of the layers together at your machine. This is an optional step, but it makes binding the potholder much easier. 14. Add a tacking stitch to the center of the star to secure all the layers together. I like to do this because without it, the potholder has a tendency to want to bow up. 15. Bind your potholder using the bias binding. You can do this at your machine, but I like to do it by hand, using chunky stitches that go through all of the layers of the potholder. And there you go! A beautiful, functional, modern folded star potholder! These would make lovely housewarming gifts, Christmas gifts, and great home decor! Looking for more tutorials? Check them all out here! You might also like: Modern Reusable Tote Bags Dog Bowtie | A Tutorial Sashiko Zipper Pouch | A Tutorial Tree Garland Table Runner | Free Tutorial... Read more...Baptist Fans Hand Quilting Video!How to hand quilt baptist fans was one of the first tutorials that ever made it up on the blog and it has continued to be a popular one! To build on the original tutorial, I’ve filmed a video version for all of you. Now you can watch and follow along! So grab your favorite thimble and stitch along with me! Prefer a photo tutorial? Check it out here. Baptist Fan Hand Quilting Video: Want More Hand Quilting? Hand Quilt Baptist FansAll About Hand Quilting NeedlesHand Quilting 1013 Hand Quilting Myths Debunked! You might also like: Sashiko Zipper Pouch | A Tutorial Hand Quilting 101 All About Hand Quilting Needles 3 Hand Quilting Myths – Debunked!... Read more...Quilt Coat | A Finished ProjectI MADE A QUILT COAT!!! Have you seen quilt coats floating around the internet lately? Oh friends I knew I had to make one too. This one, actually, is my wearable muslin but I think it has graduated to “actual clothes” since I love it so much. My neighbor told me I was channelling ketchup & mustard vibes and Jason called it a Harry Potter cloak but I’ll forgive them both because this is officially the coziest thing I own. Fabrics: So, I knew I wanted to make a quilt coat, but since I wanted to try the pattern out first, I didn’t want to go through the work of making an entire quilt, cutting it up, sewing it back together, and hating the final result. That would have been terrible. So, instead, I scoured Ebay and Facebook Marketplace for a quilt I could use as my wearable muslin. I knew I wanted to make my muslin out of a quilt because I thought it would behave differently than just a piece of fabric would. There’s layers, and bulk, and puffiness, and I wanted all of that taken into account in the construction. I’m really glad I went this route and I’m actually surprised by how much I love the result. Why am I shocked? Well, I mean, this quilt’s colors wouldn’t have been my first choice for a coat. I did figure that I could always dye it at some point, but now that it is finished I’m fully embracing the Ronald McDonald vibes it gives off. This quilt was a good candidate for a coat for two reasons. One, it was inexpensive, so I wasn’t out much if this failed. And two, it already had rips and holes, so if I kept it in quilt form, it would have needed quite a bit of repair work. It was hand quilted, and whoever quilted it actually left all the knots on the front of the quilt. I find this charming. Once I had cut out all of my pieces from the quilt, I zig-zagged all the way around every piece before starting assembly. I didn’t want the puffy quilt to come apart, and I knew that because the pattern I was using didn’t have lining, you’d see the raw edges. This made them a bit neater on the inside and I don’t have to worry about it in the wash. If I had a serger, I would have serged all the edges instead, but a zig-zag works well. The Coat: I used New Look pattern 6585 for this coat, in View B. However, I ended up chopping off 8.5″ off the bottom. The pattern cover shows view B as mid-length, and I’m 5′ 4″, so, maybe the model, who is wearing the full-length view A is extremely tall? Because this fell way past my knees and not in an attractive way. I also ended up not following the directions for finishing the outer edge. You’re supposed to fold in the raw edge twice and topstitch, but this quilt, with poly batting, is super thick. So, I just folded it over once, top-stitched, and called it a day. At some point I’d like to cover up the raw edge (which is zig-zagged so it won’t fray) with some single-fold binding, but for now, its fine. I also didn’t follow instructions for which way to press my inner seams. I just went with my gut and pressed whatever way seemed to lay the best. Not a garment maker over here, guys. Just kinda winging it as I go. And as much as I would have loved pockets, I omitted them because the quilt is just so so puffy as is. I think that on my next quilt coat, one that I’ll make from scratch, I’ll be able to add pockets because I’ll be using cotton batting which is much thinner. I won’t lie, the hood is probably my favorite part. It is a good size and fits nicely. I followed the pattern guide on the back for sizing, and even though the coat is over-sized, it doesn’t feel overly large. I’m glad I stuck with my indicated size on the pattern. I might add a snap or toggle to the front so that I can close the coat, we’ll see how I feel after some use. Overall, this was a super fun make and now I’m itching to make another. I’d love to use my Spyglass pattern on the back and make it to match Riley’s quilt coat. Won’t we be a sight for our neighborhood to see! Looking for more? Quilt Coat Pattern Round-upQuilt Sweater Toddler Quilt CoatDog Quilt Coat You might also like: Quilt Sweater | Woven Hearts Quilt Coat Pattern Round-Up Dog Quilt Coat! Toddler Quilt Coat... Read more...Quilt Sweater | Woven HeartsI know, we haven’t passed Christmas yet, but as a pattern writer, I’m always thinking ahead. And I’m so excited to announce my next pattern, Woven Hearts! Woven Hearts will release before Valentine’s Day next year! To celebrate, I used Riley Blake Designs’ newest collection, Sending Love, and turned a Woven Hearts block into a quilt sweater! Quilt Coats are all the rage this year, and for good reason. ‘Tis the year for all the comfy clothes, no? Well, not contented with only wearing my quilts out of the house as a quilt coat, and the fact I’ve lived in sweatpants since March, I decided to take the comfy one step further with a quilt sweater!! I love that this sweater looks so much more dressed up than my grungy sweats but is just as comfortable and warm. Woven Hearts plays with color to create a gingham effect, and Sending Love is the perfect collection to create that effect! I originally mocked up an entire throw quilt with this collection, which will still need to happen at some point! Details: PATTERN: Self drafted from a RTW (ready-to-wear, aka, store-bought) sweater I own and love QUILT BLOCK: Woven Hearts quilt pattern, coming from Patchwork & Poodles in January 2021 FABRICS: Riley Blake Designs Sending Love in Kisses Red and Kisses Ballerina, with Confetti Cotton Riley White background and Pin Dot in Peony for the binding METHOD: I made all the components separately (two sleeves, front, and back), basted them all to batting & backing, and quilted them with 1.5″ grid. Then I cut out the pattern pieces from the quilted panels, and went over all the edges with a narrow zig-zag to secure them. I assembled the shirt, and bound the neck, sleeves, and bottom hem with bias binding (2.5″ wide) Thoughts: I love this sweater so so much. I’ve just popped it into the wash for the first time, and I’m excited to see how it will become softer and cozier with time and washes. I could see how started with a well-worn and loved quilt would give someone an advantage, as the sweater would have a very “lived-in” feel from the get-go. I’ve got other ideas for quilted clothes, so stay tuned for more! You might also like: Quilt Coat Pattern Round-Up Dog Quilt Coat! Toddler Quilt Coat... Read more...Quilt Coat Pattern Round-UpSo you want to make a quilt coat? Not sure where to start? As quilters, we have a good grasp on the “quilt” portion of the quilt coat, but the “coat” portion? Hmmm. Luckily, coats are pretty forgiving clothing, so if anything, I suggest you jump in and try! In this blog post I’m going to detail patterns I considered when making my quilt coat and suggestions for fabrics. What’s a muslin? And do I need one? In sewing clothing, a muslin is a sample clothing item you make before you cut into the good stuff. It helps you to determine your size and fit. Do you need one? It can be helpful to make a muslin, using some cheap fabric (old sheets, fabric you don’t like, etc.) to ensure a good final fit. It will also help you to learn the process of making your coat without the stress of using “the good stuff”. So, I do recommend making a muslin before you begin. As stated above, use some cheap or ugly fabric, and sandwich it with some batting scraps (aka: frankenbatting) and backing. When making my quilt coat, I did make a muslin first. I’m glad I did because even though I sized down, the size I ended up making was still overly big. I was glad I didn’t make an entire quilt, cut up an entire quilt, and turn it into a coat and THEN find out the size wasn’t right. Patterns to use: Okay, so now we need to talk about what pattern to use for your quilt coat. Quilt coats are unique because you can eliminate the need for lining by binding all inner seams with bias tape. When deciding on my quilt coat pattern, I looked at the following coat patterns. Sapporo Coat: Photo Credit There’s some beautiful quilt coats out there made from the Sapporo Coat pattern by Papercut Patterns. I really love the shape and the pockets on this coat. However, I made a muslin, I sized down TWO sizes, and this was the result: My muslin was made from non-stretch sweatshirt fleece and a flannel lining. It has become my go-to coat to sling on when I take Riley on his morning potty break because it is oversized and warm. But, I really don’t love the look or fit to wear it outside my home. I could size down one more size, but honestly I’m worried I still won’t be happy with this pattern’s fit on me. So, I looked for other coat pattern options. BUT! I’ve seen some really lovely versions that look awesome on other people. We’re all made differently! Tamarack Jacket: Photo Credit The Tamarack Jacket by Grainline Studios is made for quilted materials, so it is a good pattern to consider for a quilt coat. It is a pattern for a shorter, more fitted coat pattern. Homeday Studio has a great blog post on how to make the patchwork Tamarack Jacket featured above. Wiksten Haori: Photo Credit This beautiful pattern boasts simple lines which are perfect for a quilt coat! You can find it for purchase here. I especially love the patchwork and hand-quilted version by The German Edge featured above. Simplicity 8298: Photo Credit Photo Credit Oh my goodness if you’re looking for a vintage style and cut, Simplicity 8298 might be for you. It is just so so cute! And has a hood option! And multiple lengths! Plus, there’s a matching kids’ sized pattern too! (Side note: when I was putting together this blog post, I noticed this pattern go on clearance on Simplicity’s site. So if it is no longer available, check Ebay, Etsy, Amazon, and other resellers). Courtney Rae documented making the above Simplicity 8298 quilt coat on Instagram. Check out this post for her helpful tips/tricks, along with the Quilt Coat highlight saved in her Instagram stories. Paola Jacket: Photo Credit This is a FREE pattern by Fabric-Store.com. Diana Vandeyar turned it into a gorgeous quilt coat in shades of red! You can look at her progress on this quilt coat on her Instagram, or head to her blog for a virtual quilt coat mock-up! New Look 6585: Photo Credit Okay, so after reviewing all of my options, making a test coat out of the Sapporo pattern and hating the fit, I settled on this pattern. The New Look 6585 pattern is made for double-faced or reversible fabrics so it doesn’t have a separate lining. If that doesn’t sound right for a quilt coat, I don’t know what does! I’ve seen several people make a quilt coat with separate lining, but since I’m using an existing quilt, I wanted to find a pattern that would work without needing a separate lining. Plus! This pattern has a hood! It comes in three lengths, and it has pockets, although to be honest I’m undecided if I’m going to add them. My quilt is rather puffy, and I worry that the pockets would be overkill on the puff factor. Maybe I’ll change my mind, but luckily, since they are exterior pockets, I can always add them at the end. I’m leaning towards view B, which is the medium length coat. I’m sure I’ll make modifications along the way (like bias binding instead of folding over the edges, etc.) and if I do, I’ll make sure to document all of it for you! Grainger Quilt: Photo Credit Photo Credit The Grainger coat by Muna and Broad is a great option for a quilt coat that comes in plus sizes! It has a short and a long length and was created for pre-quilted fabric so its a good choice for a quilt coat! Toddler Quilt Coat: I found this great FREE quilt coat pattern by Small Dream Factory for a 2 year old! I made one as a way to test my garment making skills before jumping into an adult-sized coat. You can read all about it here. I also love the look of this Pixie Pea Coat by Twig and Tale if you need a wide range of sizes. Dog Quilt Coat: Make sure your entire family is outfitted this winter! Read about my quilt coat for Riley. Fabrics: Think about your favorite quilt blocks, how do you want to use them within your quilt coat? (Harvest Star would make a killer quilt coat!) Perhaps you want to add a feature panel on the back of your quilt coat. Or, you desire an overall design. Even a simple square patchwork can look stunning when turned into a coat. Improv quilts make great, unique quilt coats and are a great stashbuster too! Another option to consider is cutting up an old quilt. When searching for these online, look for the words “cutter quilt” which denotes a quilt that has a lot of rips or stains. These make great quilt coats since you’re able to cut around the rips or stains and provide that quilt with a second life. These quilts also tend to be more economical to purchase. Don’t want to make your own? Find a great quilt coat by the following makers: Haptic Lab Purchase Here Psychic Outlaw Purchase Here Brittney Frey Purchase Here Lady Lancaster Purchase Here Vacilando Quilting Purchase Here Farewell Frances Purchase Here You might also like: Dog Quilt Coat! Toddler Quilt Coat Quilt Sweater | Woven Hearts Quilt Coat | A Finished Project... Read more...Quilt Block StockingsGot some orphan blocks laying around? Turn them into Christmas stockings using my free stocking pattern in two sizes! I’ll highlight some of my favorite quilt block ideas below. Don’t quilt? Look for “cutter quilts” on Ebay or in local antique shops. These are quilts with a massive amount of damage and are no longer fit for purpose, but are great for giving a second life. You can cut around the damaged parts to create a set of stockings, thus making the quilt usable in a different form for a long time to come. Modern Crossing Stocking I used my Modern Crossing Quilt pattern in the baby size to create this stocking in the large size. I ended up doing the front and the back since I love stockings that are reversible. For fabrics I used Essex Yarn Dyed Linen in Red and Natural, and I hand quilted in Aurifil 12 weight thread. I love how this stocking has a very traditional feel, and yet at the same time a good “modern farmhouse” aesthetic. Plus, it goes really well with the stockings I’ve already made, and I’m getting so excited to have a full collection soon! Find Modern Crossing in my shop: Quilt Kit | Baby Misty Mountains NO BACKGROUND $42.00 Add to cart Quilt Kit | Baby Misty Mountains $50.00 Add to cart Misty Mountains | PDF Sale Product on sale $12.00 $9.00 Add to cart Quilt Coat | Toddler $63.99 Read more Zippy | PDF Sale Product on sale $12.00 $9.00 Add to cart Zippy | Set of 5 $30.00 Add to cart Other Quilt Block Stockings: For a modern twist, my Linear pillow pattern would make a really fun and bold Christmas stocking! So would the Bear Path quilt pattern (wall hanging size). I mocked them up and now, I want nothing more than enough time to make allll the Christmas stockings! Linear (left) and Bear Path (right) Find Linear and Bear Path in my shop: Quilt Kit | Baby Misty Mountains NO BACKGROUND $42.00 Add to cart Quilt Kit | Baby Misty Mountains $50.00 Add to cart Misty Mountains | PDF Sale Product on sale $12.00 $9.00 Add to cart Quilt Coat | Toddler $63.99 Read more Zippy | PDF Sale Product on sale $12.00 $9.00 Add to cart Zippy | Set of 5 $30.00 Add to cart If you have some orphan blocks laying around, see how they would look at as a stocking! Christmas stockings can be any color these days, so don’t be afraid to experiment even if your blocks aren’t traditional red & green. Another great idea is to sew together improv panels from your scrap bin into unique, one-of-a-kind stockings! The sky is the limit! Want to make your own Quilt Block Stockings? Get the Christmas Stockings in Two Sizes pattern here. And don’t forget to personalize your stockings with a stocking tag! You might also like: FREE Christmas Stockings in TWO sizes! Stocking Tag Tutorial Dog Bowtie | A Tutorial Sunny Stocking | Using Accuquilt... Read more...Stocking Tag TutorialThe age old question is, how to personalize your Christmas stockings? Wait, that’s not a question in your house? Just mine? Well, anyways ;). Whether your stockings are homemade or store-bought, brand new or passed down through the generations, you can personalize them with the names of all your family members by adding this stocking tag! Not only would this tag be perfect for Christmas stockings, but would also be good as a reusable tag on gifts! The tutorial below walks you through step-by-step on creating your very own stocking tags so that every stocking in your home is personalized. Although I hand-embroided the one in the tutorial, I also made a second one later on and used my sewing machine. For the tag below, I followed the tutorial up to fusing on the fleece. Then, I used the walking foot on my machine to slowly trace around the lines I had drawn. I took my time, going slowly, until I had gone all the way around. I filled in the holes in the center of the name, then tied all of my ends off on the back. If you don’t want to hand-embroider, consider using the machine, doing some hand quilting, or machine embroidery! Machine sewn and hand embroidered stocking tags Need a stocking pattern too? Find one here in TWO sizes! Supplies: (1) 3″ x 18″ strip of fabric (front & back)3″ x 7.5″ fusible fleece, batting, or interfacing (I used fusible fleece)Large Eyelet (1/4″ opening) and eyelet toolBaker’s twine, string, ribbon, or twineStocking Tag PatternThread, tracing pencil, sewing machine Instructions: 1. Download and print the Stocking Tag Pattern at 100% scale. Check the scale with the 1″ square on the pattern. 2. Write the name on the tag pattern. The outside line of your pattern is where you’ll cut your fabric. The inside line is your seam allowance, or the space in which you have to write the name for the tag. 3. Place your fabric over the template and trace the name onto the fabric. Also trace the dot for the eyelet placement and the perimeter of the tag. 4. Fuse your fabric to the fusible fleece. I like to leave a bit of room on either side, but you can trim your tag front if you wish. Embroider the name using your preferred method. For Riley’s name, I hand-embroidered using red Aurifloss thread. For Jason’s name in the introduction above, I stitched using my sewing machine. 5. Trim your stocking tag front, and cut out a stocking tag back the same size. 6. Place stocking tag back right sides together with stocking tag front and sew all the way around with 1/4″ seam allowance, leaving about a 2″ gap open for turning the tag right side out. 7. Turn tag right side out, press, and top-stitch 1/8″ all the way around. 8. Poke a hole where your dot was for the eyelet, and add your eyelet to the tag. Cut a piece of twine or ribbon and feed it through the hole. Affix your tag to your stocking! Admire your handiwork and know that no one will get confused or fight over their stockings ever again ;). You Might Also Like: Christmas Stocking Tutorial in Two SizesUsing the Accuquilt for the Sunny Stocking You might also like: FREE Christmas Stockings in TWO sizes! Dog Collar in 4 Sizes | A Tutorial Dino Tracks | Free Pattern Tree Garland Table Runner | Free Tutorial... Read more...FREE Christmas Stockings in TWO sizes!It is the best time of the year! Time for hope and cheer! Okay, okay, but really, I love making Christmas stockings. They’re one of those projects that is super fun from the beginning to the end, and best of all, they’re easy! So whip up a whole set for your family, and be sure to check out my Stocking Tag Tutorial to personalize your makes for each member of your household. If you already have a set of Christmas stockings that you love, creating a set for a new family, a newly married couple, friends, relatives, or anyone else on your list is such a great idea and gift. I remember the frustration my sister felt a couple of years ago as she tried to find a set of stockings that fit her family and her home. What a beautiful personalized gift you can make! Inspiration: Large stocking size The beauty of these Christmas stockings is that you can get as detailed or as simple as you wish, and they look beautiful either way. For my large stocking, I did a simple overall hand-quilting crosshatch design with Aurifil 12 thread in #5007. The pop of floral from the binding helps to pull these into the “modern yet rustic” category. The large stocking, finished, measures 14.5″ from cuff to heel, 17.5″ from cuff to toe, and 9″ wide around the cuff. Perfect for really stuffing with all the holiday goodies! Small Stocking Front Small Stocking Back The small stocking was created using scraps from another quilt. Both Inkling and Zippy quilt patterns use the ‘stitch & flip’ technique, and I like to save all my little triangle offcuts and turn them into half square triangles. The HSTs finished at 1″, and I needed 114 of them (!!) to make the front of this stocking! I still had some leftover, so I made a star motif for the back of the stocking. There’s much debate over which way your stockings should point (toe to the left or toe to the right?) so a double-sided stocking seemed like the right way to go here. 😉 This stocking was machine quilted with vertical lines 1″ apart. I didn’t want to detract from the design, but also wanted to make sure that all of those seams were secure. The small stocking, finished, measures 12.5″ from cuff to heel, 13.75″ from cuff to toe, and 6.5″ wide around the cuff. My family likes to put a little something in everyone’s stockings, but it has become harder and harder to fill stockings so that they look “full” without overspending on our budget. This size is the perfect solution for that! I’ve got fabrics chosen for the rest of the stockings for this collection, I’m just hoping I have enough time left to get them done before the holidays. For both the large and small Christmas stockings, I used Riley Blake Designs Confetti Cottons in Riley White and Hunter. Hunter is absolutely my favorite green color I’ve found in fabric, and it seems to go with everything! I’ve accented them both with Liberty Fabrics’ Winter Flower Show collection. See below for the video tutorial or keep scrolling for the photo/text tutorial as well! Quilted Stocking Video Tutorial: For the Large Christmas Stockings: 2.5″ x 19″ rectangle for binding6″ length of 0.5″ twill tape1/2 yard for exterior (5/8 yard if using a directional print) – you can also piece together your stocking using improv, orphan blocks, leftover scraps from other quilts, etc!1/2 yard for lining (5/8 yard if using a directional print)1/2 yard batting (or batting scraps larger than your stocking template – frankenbatt some together!)Large Stocking Template For the Small Christmas Stockings: 2″ x 13.5″ rectangle for binding6″ length of 0.5″ twill tape1/3 yard for exterior (1/2 yard if using a directional print) – you can also piece together your stocking using improv, orphan blocks, leftover scraps from other quilts, etc!1/3 yard for lining (1/2 yard if using a directional print)1/3 yard batting (or batting scraps larger than your stocking template – frankenbatt some together!)Small Stocking Template Sewing Supplies You’ll Need: Sewing MachineThread ScissorsStraight pinsIron and Ironing boardBasting spray Instructions: 1. Print the Stocking Template at 100% scale. Check the 1″ box in the corner to ensure accurate size. Tape your stocking template pieces together then cut it out. 2. Fold your lining fabric with right sides together (wrong sides out) and place your stocking template on top. Trace around, then cut, cutting two layers at once. Sew all the way around the stocking with 1/4 seam allowance, leaving the top edge completely open. Set aside. 3. If using a single fabric for the exterior of your stocking, fold your fabric wrong sides together (right sides out), trace, and cut out. If piecing together your stocking front and back, sew together your pieces until they are large enough to cover the stocking template. You can also use the dotted lines on the template to cut a contrasting heel & toe that you can then applique to the front of the stocking. 4. Baste the exterior pieces to the batting and quilt. Make sure that your pieces are facing opposite directions. If you pieced the front and back, I recommend quilting to the batting before cutting out your stocking. If hand-quilting, check out my hand-quilting video for tips & tricks. 5. With your exterior pieces quilted, cut off the excess batting. I like to sew all the way around the stocking with 1/8″ seam allowance to hold all the layers together. This is optional. 6. Place your two exterior pieces right sides together and sew around the stocking, leaving the top of the stocking open. Turn right side out. 7. Place lining inside stocking, so that the wrong side of the lining is touching the wrong side of the exterior. Pin the layers of the top together, and baste with 1/8″ seam allowance. 8. Fold the twill tape in half, and baste with 1/8″ seam allowance to the back seam of the stocking (the seam closest to the heel of the stocking). 9. Fold your binding fabric in half lengthwise, then open and fold both halves towards the center to create double-fold binding. Sew the two short ends together and press seam open to form a loop. Add binding to your stocking’s top edge, securing all of the layers and the last raw seam. I like to do this by hand, but you can do it by machine as well. Check out the video tutorial on this stocking listed above for tips on applying your binding. Congratulations, you just made a beautiful stocking! Now to make a whole bunch more Christmas stockings for the whole family! Don’t forget to personalize each stocking with a stocking tag! Find the tutorial & pattern for the stocking tags here! You might also like: Stocking Tag Tutorial Quilt Block Stockings Dog Collar in 4 Sizes | A Tutorial Dino Tracks | Free Pattern... Read more...3 Hand Quilting Myths – Debunked!I field a lot of questions about hand-quilting. These mainly center around supplies, but once in a while I find out that someone heard from someone else that…fill-in-the-blank. Today I’m debunking 3 common hand quilting myths. If you want to know even more about hand-quilting, check out my YouTube video where I walk you through the process step-by-step, and my hand quilting Tips & Tricks blog post. Myth #1: Hand quilting isn’t as durable as machine quilting This is 100% NOT true! Especially with big-stitch hand quilting, which uses a thicker thread. Thicker thread means that it is harder to break in the first place than piecing thread would be. Not only that, but the way you’re creating the stitches, by rocking your needle from the front to the back of the quilt, means that if you did end up with a breakage, your thread wouldn’t suddenly unravel across half the quilt. Still not convinced? The quilt below is one that is on our bed. I made it over a year ago, and it has been slept under every single night and washed, and washed. Not only has it held up beautifully, I don’t have a single repair spot on it, but it has become the softest and coziest quilt we own. Oh yeah, didn’t I mention? Hand quilting makes your quilt SO soft and drapy! You can read all about this quilt here. My mom made my nephew a quilt which was all hand-quilted as well. It has held up beautifully over the last year, and we’re talking about a 1.5 year old here folks! So don’t shy away from hand quilting, it definitely is as durable as machine quilting, maybe even MORE durable! Myth #2: Hand quilting requires a ton of special supplies Nope! You need a needle, some thread, a thimble and scissors. I’m sure you have at least one of those things laying around. In my hand quilting blog post and YouTube video I detail out all of my favorite supplies, but if you want to get started, you don’t need to buy what I recommend. Use what you have at home! Experiment! See what happens! Don’t have a thimble? Wrap a couple of band-aids around your finger for protection. If you’d like to try hand quilting and don’t have a machine, consider doing a whole cloth quilt. You’ll be able to try out the technique without investing in a ton of supplies. You can even do whole cloth placemats if you want to start small. Myth #3: Hand quilting only looks nice if your stitches are even Let me in on a little secret. No one’s stitches are even! Nope, not even mine, and I’ve been doing this for a long time. I believe that’s the beauty of hand-stitching, that if you looked at my quilts you would know that a human hand sat, for hours, and created all of those stitches. That’s a look and feel that a machine will never be able to produce. Over time I’ve gotten them pretty even, sure, but they’re by no means perfect. And I don’t try to make them that way either! I don’t rip up stitches that look wonky, I let them be. Some of my orange peels are definitely wonky but when viewed as a whole, you can’t tell! When you’re hand-quilting and your nose is 10″ away from your quilt, it can be hard to see the forest for the trees. If you get frustrated with your stitches, put the quilt down on the floor, stand up and look down at it. Can you still see all your mistakes? No? Then it looks fine! With anything quilting, I find that all the little “imperfections” get lost in the design as a whole. Your eye doesn’t fixate on the small “wrong” spots, instead it will see the beauty of the quilt as a whole. Truth: Hand quilting takes a long time Okay, so I had to throw this one in at the end. There’s no getting around this one, hand quilting does take a long time to do. But, so does English Paper Piecing and Hand Applique! I always encourage people to try hand quilting. You might fall in love with it, as I have, or you might decide that it isn’t for you, and that’s okay too! But you won’t know until you try! I love nothing more than to put on a movie, grab my quilting, and snuggle in for a cozy night on the couch. FREE Sky Full Quilt Pattern available here! I hope this blog post debunked your hand quilting myths! Still got a question about hand quilting? Ask it in the comments below! See More: Hand Quilting 101 VideoHand Quilting Tips & TricksAll About Hand Quilting NeedlesBaptist Fan Hand QuiltingHand Quilted Holiday Table Runner You might also like: All About Hand Quilting Needles Sashiko Zipper Pouch | A Tutorial Hand Quilting 101 Hand Quilting Tips & Tricks... Read more... Follow us on Instagram I’m so so excited to finally tell you a secret I LARGEST SALE OF THE YEAR STARTS NOW!! 25% off patt We’re gearing up for the biggest shopping season On the blog AND on YouTube! New tutorial! 🥳🥳 Here's another look at my Wildflower Modern Crossi Load More... Follow on Instagram
Zippy | PDFProduct on sale
Inkling | PDFProduct on sale
Harvest Star | PDFProduct on sale
