Big-Stitch Hand-Binding Variation | A Tutorial


So now you’ve mastered Big-Stitch Hand-Binding and you’re looking for more. Well, look no further! Today I bring you a big-stitch hand-binding variation, a modified blanket stitch. This method of binding provides so much amazing texture and depth to the edge of your quilt! So, let’s get started!


Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, meaning, at no additional cost to you, I may earn a small commission if you choose to click through and make a purchase.

  • Needle
  • Thread (I used Aurifil 12 wt.)
  • Thimble (this one is my absolute favorite! I wear size small)
  • Small scissors to cut your thread
  • Quilt to bind

The How-To:

1. Attach the binding to the front of your quilt using your sewing machine. When doing this type of hand-binding, I tend to prefer 2.5″ binding strips (I use 2.25″ when machine binding). I also zig-zag the edge of my quilt, but this isn’t necessary. I like how it helps keep all the layers together and makes a smoother binding application.

2. Tie a knot to one end of your thread. I generally cut my thread 24-36″ long. Leave a small tail of 1-2″ after your knot.


3. Push your needle through the backing of your quilt ONLY and bring it back up about 2″ further. You will do this every time you start a new thread.

The purpose of this, and finishing a thread away from your completed stitch, is you keep the right tension through your thread. I’ve found if you try to tie a knot too close to where you start and stop, you’ll either end up with a thread that’s too tight or too loose, because you’re in a cramped spot. By carrying the thread a few inches away, you’ll get a smoother finished product.



4. Bring the needle up through the binding, directly above where your thread is in the backing. I usually come up about 1/8″ away from the binding edge.




5. Insert your needle into the backing, straight below where your thread is to form a vertical stitch. When you insert your needle, you want to angle it about 45 degrees to the left. Your needle should come out in your binding, about 1/8″ to the left of where you started. Note: You’re going through the backing/batting only. The needle should not penetrate through to the front of the quilt.


6. One finished stitch! You’ll notice your thread is perfectly positioned to make another vertical stitch down and repeat the process.


7. Continue making stitches in this way, inserting the needle in the backing to form a vertical stitch and bringing the needle back up to the left of where you started.



7. This is what the front of the quilt looks like. My stitches don’t show up on the front of the quilt at all.



8. When you reach a corner, try to get your last stitch in as close to the mitered edge as you can.


9. Insert the needle to form the vertical stitch, but instead of coming up at a 45 degree angle, bring the needle up and to the left of the midpoint in your mitered corner.


10. We’re still not going through to the front of the quilt.


11. Insert the needle on the right of the mitered corner, and come out where your thread originated.


12. Insert your needle back through on the right hand side of the mitered corner, and this time come out on the new binding side. You want your exit point to be about the same height as the stitches you were doing on the last side. (Mine are about 1/8″)


13. Insert your needle directly below your thread into the backing to create a vertical stitch, with your needle coming up through the binding at a 45 degree angle to the left of the last stitch.


14. Continue binding on this new side, as you did above.


15. When you have about 5-6″ of thread left, it is time to knot off and start a new thread. First, insert your needle directly below your thread to form a vertical stitch, and travel through the backing, coming out about 2″ away from your starting point.


16. Tie a double knot to secure the thread.


17. Travel a further 2″, then snip the thread.



18. Thread your needle with a fresh piece of thread, tying a knot about 2″ away from the end. Insert the needle near where the knot of your last thread is, and travel the length of the needle, coming up close to your last binding stitch.



19. Bring your needle up through the binding, coming out to the left of your last binding stitch. Don’t worry about the extra thread after your knot, this will get tucked into your binding and hidden when you bind over that area.


20. Insert the needle in the backing, directly below where your thread is to form a vertical stitch. Angle the needle 45 degrees to come back up in the binding to the left of your last stitch. Continue with this new thread, repeating the steps for corners and knotting off your threads until you’ve made it all the way around the quilt.



1. Make your last stitch, trying to keep them as even as possible.


2. Tie a knot about 1/2″ away from where your thread is in the binding.


3. Insert your needle directly below your thread to form a vertical stitch, and travel the needle within the layers to come out about 2″ away.



4. Pull your thread, you will need to “pop” the knot into the backing layer. This can sometimes cause a bit of resistance, be patient and eventually your knot will bury itself within the quilt layers.


5. Snip your excess thread and enjoy your finished binding!


Questions? Comment below and I’ll do my best to answer them! If you’re on Instagram, tag me @patchworkandpoodles so I can see your binding!

Author: Eliane Bergmann

Hi! I'm Eliane! (pronounced L-EEE-ON) I love creating modern quilts and other sewing projects too. Follow along as I document my projects and take a million photos of my miniature poodle Riley along the way

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