Want to make the Patchwork Chore Coat with a zipper instead of button closure? Read on for all the details!
For the Spyglass version of my Patchwork Chore Coat, I knew I wanted to make two modifications: Add length and add a zipper. I’m super happy with how this version turned out, and it really isn’t any harder than the original!
For this hack, you’ll need a separating jacket zipper. I like to buy these from Wawak. Zippers come in specific lengths, so you’ll need to figure out the length you need for your coat and adjust the pattern accordingly. We’ll walk though that below. For this lengthened version, I used a 26″ zipper.
First, start by cutting 1.25″ off the front of pattern piece 1.
Then, determine the length of your coat. For this Spyglass version, I chose to lengthen the coat by about 5″. Although the pattern comes with lengthening/shortening lines, because I was adding A LOT of length, and the coat would now cover my hips, I decided that I could use a little bit more ease, and extended the coat from the bottom of the pattern piece. I simply followed the pattern lines and added 5″. Make sure if you’re adding length that you’re adding the same amount to pattern piece 2 (coat back).
Now measure from the center collar to the bottom hem of your pattern piece 1. This measurement should be 0.75″ longer than your zipper length. For example, I used a 26″ zipper, so my length of “x” is 26.75″. You might need to lengthen or shorten your coat more at this point to get the correct measurement. Again, ensure any changes you make to the pattern piece length you also make the same changes for pattern piece 2.
Prep your zipper by folding down the top edges of the zipper tape at an angle and basting in place.
The zipper is the first thing we’re going to do when assembling the coat. Separate your zipper teeth. Place one half of the zipper right side down with one of your pattern pieces 1. Make sure the zipper is 0.75″ from the top of the pattern piece. (It should be flush with the bottom of the pattern piece). With the zipper tape overlapping the coat piece slightly, stitch together with 1/4″ seam allowance.
At this point, you can choose to bind the zipper tape and coat pieces together for a really clean finish. However, I didn’t want to add more bulk, and because the zipper tape covers the coat piece fully, I left it the way it was. Press the coat away from the zipper, and topstitch the two together, stitching close to the end of the zipper tape, fully enclosing and hiding the coat seam.
Repeat with the other side, taking the time to line up the zipper so that once your coat is completed the zipper won’t look crooked.
Continue on with the Patchwork Chore Coat pattern. You’ll follow the rest of the pattern in order with the following changes:
When adding the twill tape, fold edge of tape under so you no longer have a raw seam.
Eliminate binding the front of the coat, instead only binding the bottom hem (fold edges of bias tape under to so you don’t have a raw edge) and sleeve cuffs.